Cinque Terre
Cinque Terre and the Gulf of Poets, starting from Monterosso
Of the five villages, Monterosso is the one that makes you feel on holiday straight away: a real beach, a town you can walk end to end, and the station right there. From here the rest of the Cinque Terre and the Gulf of Poets are an easy hop by train, trail or boat. Here’s how to get around — the same tips we give our friends.
By train
Getting around by train
It’s the smartest way to experience the Cinque Terre. Hop on at Monterosso and in a few minutes you’re in Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola or Riomaggiore, all the way to La Spezia. Trains run constantly: no need to plan, just get off wherever the view pulls you in and set off again when you like. The car, here, you’ll happily leave parked.
Our tip: start early. At dawn the villages are still empty and the light is the best of the day — the photos you’re dreaming of, you take them now, not at noon.
On foot
On foot, along the trails
The Sentiero Azzurro links the five villages along a path cut high above the sea. The Monterosso-to-Vernazza stretch is the most famous: you climb through the olive groves, your breath gets shorter, and then the trail opens onto a view that stops you in your tracks. All you need is closed shoes, water and the willingness to take it slow.
Always check which sections are open and the trail conditions before you set out: they change with the season and the weather.
The sea
The sea
This is home to the only real sandy beach in the Cinque Terre, at Fegina: wide, with both lidos and free stretches, and water that stays clear even in August. From the centre the boats set off to skirt the villages from the sea — the view no postcard ever manages to capture.
Flavours
At the table
Monterosso’s anchovies are a Slow Food presidium, pesto here is a serious matter, and warm focaccia is eaten on the walk down to the beach. Below you’ll find the best-loved restaurants to get a feel for it; but if you message us, we’ll gladly tell you where we go.
From the water
Beyond the Cinque Terre
When you feel like a change of scene for a day, the Gulf of Poets is waiting: Portovenere with its church over the sea, Lerici, the islands. You reach it from La Spezia, a short train ride away, and you’re back home for dinner without ever really having left.
Looking for dates? Ask us
I answer, the same day. And if the house you had in mind is taken, I will tell you straight away which of the others can work.